Thrips, Mites, Viruses, Police and other nasty threats to a successful grow

As many grow reviews will testify one of the biggest threats to a successful crop cycle are the bleeding neighbors alongs with problem of viruses spread by Thrips,below are listed a few tips. Insects that can that can wreak havoc in any growroom, beit one for mother plants or flowering clones. And, as with any insect threat, the best course of action is one of prevention rather than cure. A few simple steps and care in the preparation and nurture of growing plants can make the difference between a successful grow and a devastating infestation.

1.windows covered with black plastic or heavy curtains;
2. condensation on windows;
3. frost build-up on eaves and vents in the winter months or lack of snow on the roof;
4. sound of electrical generators or fans;
5. lights that appear to be much brighter than normal;
6. skunky' smell commonly associated with growing marijuana;
7. unusual traffic at odd times of the day or night;
8. piles of garbage such as fertilizer containers, pots, and soil;
9. occupants of the home are rarely seen - they can seem distant or secretive.

If you suspect a grow op in your neighbourhood, do not investigate or act alone, police advise. Instead, contact your local Police Service at 41123-4567 or Crime Stoppers at 1-800-122-TIPS (8477) or online at NOTE: for the muppets who think these are genuine police contact number would you refrain from sending emails telling us how much they loath 'narks' thank you.

What you need to know: Thrips love pollen! Consequently in most cases you will find that the greatest abundance of them would be found on flowering male plants. On all plants the place to look for them is in the growing tip. Not only will they leave feeding marks on the plant's leaves but another tell-tale sign of their presence is a sticky residue on the leaf surface. This in turn provides fertile ground for a mold that will rapidly grow on it. Often turning black it is an indicator of major problems. These problems may well be passed down to clones and so plants that have suffered from Thrips in the past should never be used as a mother. Clones from a mother that has suffered from a Thrip carried viral infection may well begin to grow quite happily until a combination of optimum conditions are reached on the plant and in the grow room. Then the virus would present itelf again and potentailly dessimate a crop in one or more different ways, from slight marking of leaves right up to the complete collapse of the plant. This is one reason why mothers grown from seed (as opposed to a clone from an existing mother) offer a safer option as few organisms can survive on the seeds themselves or in the conditions that are best for seed storage.

Quick Facts...

Spider mites are common plant pests. Symptoms of injury include flecking, discoloration (bronzing) and scorching of leaves. Injury can lead to leaf loss and even plant death.
Natural enemies include small lady beetles, predatory mites, minute pirate bugs, big-eyed bugs and predatory thrips.
One reason that spider mites become a problem is insecticides that kill their natural predators.
Irrigation and moisture management can be important cultural controls for spider mites.
Spider mites are common pest problems on many plants around yards and gardens in Colorado. Injury is caused as they feed, bruising the cells with their small, whiplike mouthparts and ingesting the sap. Damaged areas typically appear marked with many small, light flecks, giving the plant a somewhat speckled appearance. Following severe infestations, leaves become discolored, producing an unthrifty gray or bronze look to the plant. Leaves and needles may ultimatelybecome scorched and drop prematurely.

Spider mites frequently kill plants or cause serious stress to them. Spider mites (Family: Tetranychidae) are classed as a type of arachnid, relatives of insects that also includes spiders, ticks, daddy-longlegs and scorpions. Spider mites are small and often difficult to see with the unaided eye. Their colors range from red and brown to yellow and green, depending on the species of spider mite and seasonal changes in their appearance. Many spider mites produce webbing, particularly when they occur in high populations. This webbing gives the mites and their eggs some protection from natural enemies and environmental fluctuations. Webbing produced by spiders, as well as fluff produced by cottonwoods, often is confused with the webbing of spider mites. The most important spider mite is the twospotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae). This mite attacks a wide range of garden plants, including many vegetables (e.g., beans, eggplant), fruits (e.g., raspberries, currants, pear) and flowers. The twospotted spider mite is also the most important species on house plants. It is a prolific producer of webbing.

Evergreens tend to host other mites, notably the spruce spider mite (Oligonychus ununguis) on spruce and juniper, Oligonychus subnudus on pines, and Platytetranychus libocedri on arborvitae and juniper. Honeylocust, particularly those in drier sites, are almost invariably infested with the honeylocust spider mite (Platytetranychus multidigituli). Other mites may affect shade trees such as elm, mountain ash and oak. Clover mites also are the common mite that enters homes in fall and spring, sometimes creating significant nuisance problems in the process.

Life History and Habits

Spider mites develop from eggs, which usually are laid near the veins of leaves during the growing season. Most spider mite eggs are round and extremely large in proportion to the size of the mother. After egg hatch, the old egg shells remain and can be useful in diagnosing spider mite problems. There is some variation in the habits of the different mites that attack garden plants, trees and shrubs. Outdoors, the twospotted spider mite and honeylocust spider mite survive winter as adults hidden in protected areas such as bark cracks, bud scales or under debris around the garden. Other mites survive the cool season in the egg stage. As winter approaches, most mites change color, often turning more red or orange. This habit may be why they are sometimes called "red spiders."Most spider mite activity peaks during the warmer months. They can develop rapidly during this time, becoming full-grown in as little as a week after eggs hatch. After mating, mature females may produce a dozen eggs daily for a couple of weeks. The fast development rate and high egg production can lead to extremely rapid increases in mite populations. Other species of spider mites are most active during the cooler periods of the growing season, in spring and fall. This includes the spruce spider mite and most of the mites that can damage turfgrass. These cool-season spider mites may cease development and produce dormant eggs to survive hot summer weather. Dry conditions greatly favor all spider mites, an important reason why they are so important in the more arid areas of the country. They feed more under dry conditions, as the lower humidity allows them to evaporate excess water they excrete. At the same time, most of their natural enemies require more humid conditions and are stressed by arid conditions. Furthermore, plants stressed by drought can produce changes in their chemistry that make them more nutritious to spider mites.

Control Biological Controls

Various insects and predatory mites feed on spider mites and provide a high level of natural control. One group of small, dark-colored lady beetles known as the "spider mite destroyers" (Stethorus species) are specialized predators of spider mites. Minute pirate bugs, big-eyed bugs (Geocoris species) and predatory thrips can be important natural enemies. A great many mites in the family Phytoseiidae are predators of spider mites. In addition to those that occur naturally, some of these are produced in commercial insectaries for release as biological controls. Among those most commonly sold via mail order are Galendromus occidentalis, Phytoseiulus persimilis, Mesoseiulus longipes and Neoseiulus californicus. Although these have been successful in control of spider mites on interior plants, effective use outdoors has not been demonstrated in Colorado. Predatory mites often have fairly high requirements for humidity, which can be limiting. Most suppliers provide information regarding use of the predator mites that they carry..

One reason that spider mites become problems in yards and gardens is the use of insecticides that destroy their natural enemies. For example, carbaryl (Sevin) devastates most spider mite natural enemies and can greatly contribute to spider mite outbreaks. Malathion can aggravate some spider mite problems, despite being advertised frequently as effective for mite control. Soil applications of the systemic insecticide imidacloprid (Merit, Marathon) have also contributed to some spider mite outbreaks.

Chemical Controls

Chemical control of spider mites generally involves pesticides that are specifically developed for spider mite control (miticides or acaricides). Few insecticides are effective for spider mites and many even aggravate problems. Furthermore, strains of spider mites resistant to pesticides frequently develop, making control difficult. Because most miticides do not affect eggs, a repeat application at an approximately 10- to 14-day interval is usually needed for control. Table 1 includes a summary of pesticides that may be useful for managing spider mites.

Control of Spider Mites on House Plants

Control on house plants can be particularly frustrating. There generally are no biological controls and few effective chemical controls (primarily soaps and horticultural oils). When attempting control, treat all susceptible house plants at the same time. Trim, bag and remove heavily infested leaves and discard severely infested plants. Periodically hose small plants in the sink or shower. Wipe leaves of larger plants with a soft, damp cloth. Reapply these treatments at one- to two-week intervals as long as populations persist.

APHIDS

Aphids are a small insect which are not much smaller than a grain of rice. There are hundreds of species distributed throughout the world and though most are plant or host specific, aphids are able to adapt their nutritional needs to take advantage of that which is abundant and available. Aphids are generally green in color but can be clear, white
and just about any color which may have something to do with just what it is they are eating. Aphids have piercing chewing mouthparts which enable them to feed off the sap or life blood of any plant. They are much like Fleas or Mosquitoes are to mammals; Aphids seek the blood of plant life and won't stop feeding regardless of how much they hurt or stunt the plant. Fleas and mosquitoes seek the blood of pets and people; aphids seek the blood of your favorite Blueberry or Jack-Frost This behavior lends itself to many problems which stem from aphid populations and these problems are all reasons why you should not tolerate them little devils.

Swamp growing has proved itself a very viable method for outdoor cannabis cultivation,and has been used by west coast growers for years.It provides perhaps the easist and most prolific site for outdoor stealth growing.It is also one of the least problematic methods,requiring the fewest visits,both self fertilising and self watering....stealth to the max. In this first artical I will explain exactly what swamp growing is,where you want to plant in a swamp and the preseason prep. A word of warning: For our friends in Florida and southern Louisiana,don't try this at home kids,mosquitoes and black-flies are one thing...Crocs and venomous snakes..quite another. Location: The type of swamp you are looking for,may be called a bog,or marsh,depending on where you are from,but what you need is a lake that has a "floating" bog at one end or side.Aproaching from land,the surface should be springy and damp,to the point where if you walk out further you will sink in water. You want to ensure you are out on the floating bog,and not still on shore. Preperation:It's first or second week of March.(asap after last frost).This is when you want to prep your spots. Firstig a 3ftx3ft chunk of the bog out deep enough to reach open water below. Pile the material you take out of the hole in a mound beside the hole.It is this mound your girls will live in. Treat this mound of moss/soil with dolomite lime as swamps tend to be very acidic.At this time,a couple of cups of Texas(insect eating) bat guano,and worm castings can be tilled in. Leave this mess for two weeks to stabilise and thats it,your site is prepped. Thats it for the first artical, more to come....next,time to plant.

THRIPS,IF YOU'VE GOT THEM,THEN YOU WILL ALSO HAVE

Impatiens Necrotic Spot Virus and Cannabis Spotted Wilt Virus) Below is important reading.

Until recently, Cannabis spotted wilt virus was considered to have two strains; the impatiens strain and the lettuce strain (also known as the common strain). The impatiens strain was recently found to be different from tomato/cannabis spotted wilt virus and has been renamed Impatiens Necrotic Spot Virus (INSV). The impatiens strain is more commonly found in greenhouses than the lettuce strain. Both strains may occur in greenhouses as well as in vegetables but it is usually the lettuce strain which is found in vegetables. Tuberous dahlias also appear to be a common host of the lettuce strain. The two different viruses can cause different symptoms in tobacco but it is not yet clear if they cause different symptoms in other plants. The host ranges of the two viruses overlap but it is not known to what extent.It does effect all cannabis plants.Impatiens necrotic spot virus is becoming one of the most important problems in the floriculture industry today. The virus is widespread due to the distribution of infected plant material and the increased prevalence of the insect vector which transmits the disease.The host ranges for the viruses are extensive. More than 300 plant species are known to be susceptible including Cannabis . It is likely that many more new hosts will be discovered.

Life History

Both viruses are transmitted by vegetative propagation of infected plant material and by the feeding activity of certain species of thrips. In greenhouses, the most important vector is considered to be the western flower thrips (WFT), Frankliniella occidentalis. The virus is associated with thrips in a persistent manner. Larvae become viruliferous after feeding about 30 minutes on an infected plant. After a latent period lasting 3 to 18 days, the thrips can infect new plants after feeding for 5 to 10 minutes. The insects are able to transmit the virus for the rest of their lives. In greenhouses the viruses can be perpetuated through successive crops and weeds resulting in losses year-round. The disease has not been observed to spread significantly in field-planted vegetable crops in Massachusetts.

Management

Elimination of infected plant material and WFTs are the most important management practices. Newly-acquired plant shipments should be inspected for evidence of thrips and symptoms of virus before being introduced into the greenhouse. Symptomatic plants should be discarded or isolated and the supplier should be notified after laboratory confirmation of the disease. Since various weed species can harbor the viruses, thorough weed control is important. If possible, keep vegetatively propagated plants isolated from those produced from seed. Do not grow vegetable transplants in the same greenhouse with susceptible ornamentals. Thrips populations should be monitored with sticky traps. Since only a small number of viruliferous thrips are necessary to start an epidemic, total eradication of WFT should be the goal.Organic insectiside is one method of control,available from your local B+Q store.

Nutrient Disorder Problem Solver

To use the Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you've found the problem, read the Nutrients section to learn more about it. Diagnose carefully before making major changes.

1) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2. b) If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.

2) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen(N) deficiency. b) If not, go to #3.

3) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency. b) If not, go to #4.

4) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency. b) If not, keep reading.

5) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and leaves may be small. >> Phosphorus(P) deficiency. b) If not, go to #6.

6) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K. b) If not, go to #7.

7) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray, brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N). b) If not, go to #8…

8) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >> Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely). b) If not, go to #9.

9) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning. b) If not, go to #10...

10) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency. b) If not, go to #11.

11) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency. b) If not, #12.

12) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn) deficiency. b) If not, #13.

13) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency. b) If not… You may just have a weak plant.


The Nutrients:

Nitrogen - Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.

Magnesium - Mg-deficiency is pretty common since marijuana uses lots of it and many fertilizers don't have enough of it. Mg-deficiency is easily fixed with ¼ teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water) or foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart. When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil for Mg. Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.

Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.

Phosphorous - Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.

Iron - Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P-deficiency.

Manganese - Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use chelated Mn.

Zinc - Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients-lower the pH if that's the problem so the nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc.

Check Your Water - Crusty faucets and shower heads mean your water is "hard," usually due to too many minerals. Tap water with a TDS (total dissolved solids) level of more than around 200ppm (parts per million) is "hard" and should be looked into, especially if your plants have a chronic problem. Ask your water company for an analysis listing, which will usually list the pH, TDS, and mineral levels (as well as the pollutants, carcinogens, etc) for the tap water in your area. This is a common request, especially in this day and age, so it shouldn't raise an eyebrow. Regular water filters will not reduce a high TDS level, but the costlier reverse-osmosis units, distillers, and de-ionizers will. A digital TDS meter (or EC = electrical conductivity meter) is an incredibly useful tool for monitoring the nutrient levels of nutrient solution, and will pay for itself before you know it. They run about $40 and up.

General Feeding Tips - Pot plants are very adaptable, but a general rule of thumb is to use more nitrogen & less phosphorous during the vegetative period, and the exact opposite during the flowering period. For the veg. period try a N:P:K ratio of about 10:7:8 (which of course is the same ratio as 20:14:16), and for flowering plants, 4:8:8. Check the pH after adding nutrients. If you use a reservoir, keep it circulating and change it every 2 weeks. A general guideline for TDS levels is as follows:
seedlings = 50-150 ppm; unrooted clones = 100-350 ppm; small plants = 400-800 ppm; large plants = 900-1800 ppm; last week of flowering = taper off to plain water. These numbers are just a guideline, and many factors can change the actual level the plants will need. Certain nutrients are "invisible" to TDS meters, especially organics, so use TDS level only as an estimate of actual nutrient levels. When in doubt about a new fertilizer, follow the fertilizer's directions for feeding tomatoes. Grow a few tomato or radish plants nearby for comparison.

PH - The pH of water after adding any nutrients should be around 5.9-6.5 (in rockwool, 5.5-6.1). Generally speaking, the micro-nutrients (Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu) get locked out at a high pH (alkaline) above 7.0, while the major nutrients (N, P, K, Mg) can be less available in acidic soil or water (below 5.0). Tap water is often too alkaline. Soils with lots of peat or other organic matter in them tend to get too acidic, which some dolomite lime will help fix. Soil test kits vary in accuracy, and generally the more you pay the better the accuracy. For the water, color-based pH test kits from aquarium stores are inexpensive, but inaccurate. Invest in a digital pH meter ($40-80), preferably a waterproof one. You won't regret it.

Cold - Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can lock up phosphorous. Some
varieties, like equatorial sativas, don't take well to cold weather. If you can keep the roots warmer, the plant will be able to take cooler temps than it otherwise could.

Heat - If the lights are too close to the plant, the tops may be curled, dry, and look burnt, mimicking a nutrient problem. Your hand should not feel hot after a minute when you hold it at the top of the plants. Raise the lights and/or aim a fan at the hot zone. Room temps should be kept under 85F (29C) -- or 90F (33) if you add additional CO2.

Humidity - Thin, shriveled leaves can be from low humidity. 40-80 % is usually fine.

Mold and Fungus - Dark patchy areas on leaves and buds can be mold. Lower the humidity and increase the ventilation if mold is a problem. Remove any dead leaves, wherever they are. Keep your garden clean.

Insects - White spots on the tops of leaves can mean spider mites
underneath.

Sprays - Foliar sprays can have a "magnifying glass" effect under bright lights, causing small white, yellow or burnt spots which can be confused with a nutrient problem. Some sprays can also cause chemical reactions.

Insufficient light - tall, stretching plants are usually from using the wrong kind of light.. Don't use regular incandescent bulbs ("grow bulbs") or halogens to grow cannabis. Invest in fluorescent lighting (good) or HID lighting (much better) which supply the high-intensity light
that cannabis needs for good growth and tight buds. Even better, grow in sunlight. SEE LIGHTING

Clones - yellowing leaves on unrooted clones can be from too much light, or the stem may not be firmly touching the rooting medium. Turn off any CO2 until they root. Too much fertilizer can shrivel or wilt clones - plain tap water is fine.